So I was trying to finish the Barn Owl for a gallery gig that is due tomorrow, but I misread the entry forms. The submission is not a digital submission with another week or so before you find out if you made it. This one is a physical submission.
I am smart (shaking head no). Not super bummed about it, though. I am going to submit my Ram and Pronghorn instead. This will allow me to get some serious detail into the feathers of the Owl. All good things.
Below are progress shots up until about 3 o'clock when I reread the papers and decided to take a break:
The back wing is a little bit darker than in the image, the gloss from the couch I painted into is still pretty shinny.
To see the beginning shots, take a look at Barn Owl: Part 1.
I have a new website, head over to katherinegriffinstudio.com for more posts!
Friday, January 15, 2016
Purple Oil Paint: Pigments, Basics, and How to Pick the Right Purple
Purple, like blue, is a color of status and wealth. Worn by Roman magistrates, Byzantine and Asian Emperors, Roman Catholic bishops, and Suffragettes. It is associated with majesty and magic. However, it is rarely found as a painted pigment in old master works.
This is due to three things: a purple pigment for paint does not exist in nature; blue, at the time, was a rare and an extremely high value pigment; and purple organic dye was very expensive and very fugitive as a paint pigment. By fugitive I mean it would fade like nobody's business.
Blue pigment was more expensive than gold, therefore using blue to mix purple was a status symbol. The purples that we see in old master works were mixed from blue, such as in the works by Giotto.
Purple dye dates back to the Phoenicians, Phoenicia meaning "land of purple." The organic Tyrian Purple dye was made from a small gland of the murex sea snail. Thousands of snails would be captured or bred, then with shells removed they would
be soaked in water until bloated and their hypobranchial gland removed. The gland produces a white liquid that when placed in the sun would change color from white to yellow-green to green to purple to blood red if left long enough. 12,000 snails would only create 1.4 g of dye. Just enough to dye the trim of a garment. While Tyrian Purple created a long lasting, dynamic dye, as a pigment it would quickly and very expensively fade.
Now that doesn't mean purple was not used, it was just very expensive to use. Much like orange and red, purple as a pigment did not come into its own until the 19th century when at eighteen William Henry Perkin created the first synthetic purple called mauve.
Top Characteristic: Purple can be used to create deep, full shadows, and is essential for botanical and nature painting. Look for purple shadows cast off of yellow buildings and plants.
Purple is sometimes considered to be one of the least necessary paint pigments to purchase, because it is so easy to mix. However, it is important to note that some purples, such as Cobalt Violet, cannot be mixed.
Pigment Numbers (PV#): Along with the paint names, I have also included the pigment numbers. Look for these numbers to make sure you are purchasing a true purple and not a cheaper mix, as purples can sometimes come with various names.
Cobalt Violet (PV14): Considered the first real violet, Cobalt Violet is a warm, transparent purple with an extremely weak tint that cannot be mixed using other pigments.
Because Cobalt Violet is so weak you will not always find it in its pure form, but rather mixed with its cleaner and stronger cousin Manganese Violet (PV16), which gives the paint more body, but the color does change slightly. Pure Cobalt, because it is so weak, mixes poorly and becomes gray, but as a final coat or glaze it sings.
Cobalt Violet was used by artists such as Monet and Seurat.
Manganese Violet (PV 16): A stronger violet than Cobalt, Manganese Violet is a warm, transparent purple with a muted tint.
A little redder than Cobalt, Manganese can give an artist the strength and body that Cobalt lacks. When mixed with white it creates a warm lavender tint. It is considered to be the original mauve pigment.
Quinacridone Violet (PV 19): A synthetic pigment sold under many different names, Quinacridone Violet is an extremely red, warm, transparent purple with a strong tint.
When looking for this color particularly, check the paint label for the pigment number because its names are so varied.
Dioxazine Purple: One of the more versatile purples, Dioxazine is a cold, transparent purple, with a strong tint.
Considered the strongest tinter and most transparent of any pigment, Dioxazine is so dark (the sample swatch was painted extremely thinly so you could actually see the purple color) that it can be used as a deep black. It is advised to use it sparingly because it is so strong, but when used correctly it creates lovely purples and tints. It is also the most commonly used purple.
How to Pick the Right Purple
Like orange, you can hold off on purchasing a purple until you have acquired some of the more necessary paints. That being said, I love having a Dioxazine Purple to work into dark backgrounds, and purples are necessary for botanical paintings.
Both the Lilly and Chuck Norris's backgrounds were painted first with Burnt Sienna, then Pthalo Blue, and finally darkened using Dioxazine Purple.
Remember, when you are picking which purple to paint with always consider the following characteristics: color temperature and tinting strength (opacity doesn't really come into play as most purples are transparent). For a warm purple first consider Manganese Violet (depending on the provider the name can differ, check for the pigment number PV16) and for a cool purple Dioxazine Purple.
For more about colors and their pigment characteristics take a look at my Tips and Techniques page.
Purple used throughout Art
This is due to three things: a purple pigment for paint does not exist in nature; blue, at the time, was a rare and an extremely high value pigment; and purple organic dye was very expensive and very fugitive as a paint pigment. By fugitive I mean it would fade like nobody's business.
Blue pigment was more expensive than gold, therefore using blue to mix purple was a status symbol. The purples that we see in old master works were mixed from blue, such as in the works by Giotto.
Purple dye dates back to the Phoenicians, Phoenicia meaning "land of purple." The organic Tyrian Purple dye was made from a small gland of the murex sea snail. Thousands of snails would be captured or bred, then with shells removed they would
be soaked in water until bloated and their hypobranchial gland removed. The gland produces a white liquid that when placed in the sun would change color from white to yellow-green to green to purple to blood red if left long enough. 12,000 snails would only create 1.4 g of dye. Just enough to dye the trim of a garment. While Tyrian Purple created a long lasting, dynamic dye, as a pigment it would quickly and very expensively fade.
Now that doesn't mean purple was not used, it was just very expensive to use. Much like orange and red, purple as a pigment did not come into its own until the 19th century when at eighteen William Henry Perkin created the first synthetic purple called mauve.
Top Characteristic: Purple can be used to create deep, full shadows, and is essential for botanical and nature painting. Look for purple shadows cast off of yellow buildings and plants.
Purple is sometimes considered to be one of the least necessary paint pigments to purchase, because it is so easy to mix. However, it is important to note that some purples, such as Cobalt Violet, cannot be mixed.
Pigment Numbers (PV#): Along with the paint names, I have also included the pigment numbers. Look for these numbers to make sure you are purchasing a true purple and not a cheaper mix, as purples can sometimes come with various names.
Because Cobalt Violet is so weak you will not always find it in its pure form, but rather mixed with its cleaner and stronger cousin Manganese Violet (PV16), which gives the paint more body, but the color does change slightly. Pure Cobalt, because it is so weak, mixes poorly and becomes gray, but as a final coat or glaze it sings.
Cobalt Violet was used by artists such as Monet and Seurat.
A little redder than Cobalt, Manganese can give an artist the strength and body that Cobalt lacks. When mixed with white it creates a warm lavender tint. It is considered to be the original mauve pigment.
Quinacridone Violet (PV 19): A synthetic pigment sold under many different names, Quinacridone Violet is an extremely red, warm, transparent purple with a strong tint.
When looking for this color particularly, check the paint label for the pigment number because its names are so varied.
Dioxazine Purple: One of the more versatile purples, Dioxazine is a cold, transparent purple, with a strong tint.
Considered the strongest tinter and most transparent of any pigment, Dioxazine is so dark (the sample swatch was painted extremely thinly so you could actually see the purple color) that it can be used as a deep black. It is advised to use it sparingly because it is so strong, but when used correctly it creates lovely purples and tints. It is also the most commonly used purple.
How to Pick the Right Purple
Like orange, you can hold off on purchasing a purple until you have acquired some of the more necessary paints. That being said, I love having a Dioxazine Purple to work into dark backgrounds, and purples are necessary for botanical paintings.
Both the Lilly and Chuck Norris's backgrounds were painted first with Burnt Sienna, then Pthalo Blue, and finally darkened using Dioxazine Purple.
Remember, when you are picking which purple to paint with always consider the following characteristics: color temperature and tinting strength (opacity doesn't really come into play as most purples are transparent). For a warm purple first consider Manganese Violet (depending on the provider the name can differ, check for the pigment number PV16) and for a cool purple Dioxazine Purple.
For more about colors and their pigment characteristics take a look at my Tips and Techniques page.
Purple used throughout Art
Below are some wonderful examples of purple in art in the following order: Giotto, Fyodor Rokotov, John William Waterhouse, Van Gogh, Klimt, and David Hockney.
Thursday, January 14, 2016
Wednesday, January 13, 2016
Delve Video Essays: The Long Game Parts 1, 2, and 3
Below are three video essays on the importance of the "long game" as an artist and the necessity to see the hard times through. Obviously the ideas presented here can apply to anyone, not just artists.
Colossal - Painting in the Dark
Colossal - Painting in the Dark
In the age of social media and the over-saturation of information, seeking recognition as an artist or designer can at times be a difficult, self-defeating effort. Creative individuals understandably have high expectations for the reception of their work, and hope for a public response that correlates with the labor spent on its products. In Adam Westbrook's new video essay[s] we get a fantastic argument against the perceived value of modern popularity tied to social media likes and shares.
I am not 100% solid on the ideas presented in the videos. Mostly because I don't think that you are less of an "artist" for wanting recognition, nor do I think you are more of an "artist" because you suffer for art's sake as a complete autotelic. However, even with that, it can be helpful to have some perspective.
What do you think? Should the end goal be autotelicy (made up the word), or being able to feed yourself doing something that you love?
Also, I think that I will be creating a new link for my Art Tips and Techniques page, something like Helpful Videos for Artists.
A New Logo for Me!
For a couple of years I had a website. My sister was building it for me, however it was never finished. Not because of her, mind you, but me. Because I am the slowest, dork of a painter ever. Happily, now that I actually have some works to put up, we are at it again!
As I have been sharpening my illustrator and photoshop skills I thought I would try my hand at a logo for my new imaginary site. My idea for the logo came from a Christmas present of a moveable type stamp that was given to me by an awesome friend.
She found it in England and thought that I could use it as a type of signature for my paintings. It being a gryphon and all, I was sold.
Sadly, as a moveable type it is meant to be pressed into, and not stamped from. I took to the internets and found another stamp, though not as cool, and it is this stamp that I now use to "sign" the back of my paintings.
Below are some of the logo ideas I came up with, although in the end another sister will be making my actual logo. As her's will be a billion times better. The first two were made in illustrator, the last two in photoshop:
I use a red ink pad to stamp my "signature," hence the red images. Depending on the colors we choose for the site I may be getting a different color pad, but I do really like the last one.
As I have been sharpening my illustrator and photoshop skills I thought I would try my hand at a logo for my new imaginary site. My idea for the logo came from a Christmas present of a moveable type stamp that was given to me by an awesome friend.
She found it in England and thought that I could use it as a type of signature for my paintings. It being a gryphon and all, I was sold.
Sadly, as a moveable type it is meant to be pressed into, and not stamped from. I took to the internets and found another stamp, though not as cool, and it is this stamp that I now use to "sign" the back of my paintings.
Below are some of the logo ideas I came up with, although in the end another sister will be making my actual logo. As her's will be a billion times better. The first two were made in illustrator, the last two in photoshop:
I use a red ink pad to stamp my "signature," hence the red images. Depending on the colors we choose for the site I may be getting a different color pad, but I do really like the last one.
Monday, January 11, 2016
Color Temperature: A Pigment's Tell and a little bit about Blue
The other day I was wondering what the difference was between Ultramarine Blue and French Ultramarine Blue (because that is something normal people wonder about), and I learned something new about color temperature.
99% of the time the color temperature of a paint is easy to tell, but then there is that 1%. For me, it is with blues. I forget which is which and need to look them up. Before, in my head I classified colors into how close they were to blue or orange, blue being the coolest and orange being the warmest.
The problem that I ran into with trying to decide the temperature of Ultramarine and French Ultramarine, beyond that they are both blue and therefore cooler than most colors, is that they reside on opposite sides of "true blue." Does this make the both of them warm, since they are moving away from blue? But then how does that work with cool blues? I was confused and took to the internets.
I found a lovely little post from the American Society of Botanical Artists that explained the difference between warm and cool in a way that should have been obvious.
Most pigments will either have a green or red bias, not an orange or blue bias. Those with a green bias are cool while those with a red bias are warm. Thinking of warm and cool in this way simplifies, at least for me, color temperature.
Ultramarine has a slight green bias and therefore is cool. French Ultramarine leans towards violet with a slight red bias and therefore is warm. Ta da! Mystery solved! You can read more about their differences here.
You can also read about why color temperature is important for accurate lights and shadows here and check out my main Tips and Techniques page for more information about painting.
The problem that I ran into with trying to decide the temperature of Ultramarine and French Ultramarine, beyond that they are both blue and therefore cooler than most colors, is that they reside on opposite sides of "true blue." Does this make the both of them warm, since they are moving away from blue? But then how does that work with cool blues? I was confused and took to the internets.
I found a lovely little post from the American Society of Botanical Artists that explained the difference between warm and cool in a way that should have been obvious.
Most pigments will either have a green or red bias, not an orange or blue bias. Those with a green bias are cool while those with a red bias are warm. Thinking of warm and cool in this way simplifies, at least for me, color temperature.
Ultramarine has a slight green bias and therefore is cool. French Ultramarine leans towards violet with a slight red bias and therefore is warm. Ta da! Mystery solved! You can read more about their differences here.
You can also read about why color temperature is important for accurate lights and shadows here and check out my main Tips and Techniques page for more information about painting.
Thursday, January 7, 2016
Barn Owl: Part 1
I have a secret, I have not been painting very much lately. Illustrator and Photoshop have distracted me a bit, but I am back to it with desperation. I want to have this painting finished by the 16th for a gallery gig...right... so far I am moving at a pretty good pace, so hopefully. I have been listening to Mozart nonstop in hopes that he will help me concentrate.
Underdrawing: Pthalo Blue
Underpainting: Vandyke Brown
Overpainting and details: Titanian/Zinc White, Naples Yellow, Yellow Ochre, Indian Yellow, Alizarin Permanent, French Ultra Marine, Pthalo Blue, Red Iron Oxide, Van Dyke Brown, Payne's Gray
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